For those who speak better Spanish than me,
the title of this piece (is supposed to) mean daydreaming in Valencia . The Spanish saying papar moscas literally translates to ‘chewing flies’, which if you squint your eyes and tilt your head to the left, may elicit some hazy connection with being lost in thought. This wonderful phrase speaks to me, not just lyrically, but because it feels so applicable to Valencia. I was lucky enough to visit a friend living in Ibiza, and was ‘forced’ by lack of direct flights to stop in Valencia on the return journey. So I decided to book 2 nights in a nice hotel and go exploring, one of my favourite things to do.
And so I sit, at 7pm on a Thursday night, in the shade because the sun is still el-scorchio, at a local bar doing just this – papar moscas. As my cold beer pours condensation onto my lap, I look to my right at a table of older ladies, at least in their 70’s, supping down drinks like it was happy hour at a tea dance. They chat and gesture emphatically, one of them on her 3rd San Miguel – before dinner! I’m in awe, and slightly tipsy on my first! I can tell that not many tourists come here, a few people have 1 eye on me, but its vague interest at best, and I feel comfortable and relaxed as I peruse my surroundings and absorb this warm, friendly atmosphere.
Valencia is a beautiful city, well designed and easy going. It is simple to navigate and very accessible, confirmed by the number of wheelchair users I see here enjoying the sights and lifestyle. The Metro tram/train system is also user-friendly, comprising of 9 lines stretching from the airport to the huge stretch of beach 18kms to the east. I am told my hotel is 4kms away from the old city, which used to be a walled roman city back in the day. So I decided to take the scenic route and walk through Turia Jardin, once a river, now a meandering park winding its way through the heart of Valencia. It houses many spectacular buildings including the opera house (pictured above), science museum and oceanarium – all contemporary masterpieces, surrounded by water that accommodates children learning to sail and even zorbing! A bit further on and you reach the concert hall with a grandly-pillared water feature in front. You’ll wander past palm trees, cross little lakes, and walk under ornate bridges, one of which was built in the 14th century with 2 striking reconstructed statues at one end. And then you reach the main attraction – the old city!
It is a pleasant afternoon spent wandering the streets of this place. Old churches and huge towers at every turn, little bars and shops in unexpected places, and of course, the cathedral (Cathedral–Basilica of the Assumption of Our Lady, alternatively known as Saint Mary’s Cathedral). Set in a large square, gardens and pubs (and sadly, a McDonalds) at the front, surrounded by stunning dusky pink and terracotta brown walls at the back, the cathedral is breathtaking. Also tucked away back there is the archaeology museum which houses roman relics dating as far back as 3AD.
If you take Calle Cabealleros from there you can wander past more shops and cafes – including 2 vegan cafes – up to the Botanical Gardens. At first not an overly impressive display, and very little English translation, but as you venture further you start to notice babbling streams, butterflies, birds and several cats! And suddenly you want to sit down, close your eyes and, oh, papar moscas once again! From here I headed back towards the centre, where I thought by taking Calle Vicente Martir I would head straight for Plaza de Toros, the amphitheater built in the 1850’s to mimic the roman architectural style. However, somehow I ended up back at the cathedral! So I sat down at a table just round the corner from the cathedral to drink in my surroundings as well as a cold, much-needed beer.
The following day, before my 8pm flight, I headed to the sprawling golden sands where €4.50 gets you an umbrella and in my case, severe sunburn! But the water is clear and warm, the sand is soft and the drinks overpriced – but this is what holidays are made of!
I would highly recommend a trip to this beautiful place, and with it being just a 2 hour flight from Gatwick airport you can easily do it in a weekend. The food is cheap, the beer is cold – so don’t chew flies – book yourself a trip!
hippietales.com 