According to the bible (Lonely Planet), Delos is not to be missed! And I would have to agree. I don’t know a lot about Greek history, and unless you get a guided tour of Delos you’re not gonna learn any there! But it is a truly breathtaking place.

After a fine breakfast of fruit, yoghurt and toast (not real toast but that mini toasted bread you can buy in packs across Europe) I wandered down to the harbour to find my boat ‘Naxos Star’, a cute little ferry that had clearly been decorated in 1972 when chintzy cabaret lounges were all the rage. I chose a ‘lounge’ seat by the coffee bar and made friends with Nikos, the 25 year old barman who was only on his 2nd day on the job. We set of for Delos via another collection of troops from neighbouring Paros, which also looked gorgeous with its bright white harbour town. It quickly got borderline raucous  with the French and German groups clearly having the time of their lives, hugging, laughing and drinking tiny coffees and shots of raki! You couldn’t help but smile.

We were told we had 3 hours at Delos – that’s a lot of time if the LP has oversold. We flocked towards the entrance like well behaved sheep, and when I flashed my student card (yes technically I was still studying) I got in for free! Standard price €12 – bonza! There were plenty of groups being led by little flags and parasols, but I was quite glad not to be part of one as standing still for 30 mins between stone walls baking in the scorching sun did not appeal at all. Instead I put my ‘arty’ hat on (wishing I’d brought my actual hat) and went looking for photo ops. I really enjoyed myself – its been a long time since I simply looked at the angles and colours instead of the history – I was off-roading (naughty) climbing over boulders and stumbling over old relics. I loved the blend of man-made and nature, and the aptitude of the architects back then, incredible.

These ancient walls were completely solid, no glimmer of light getting through, amazing edges and corners crafted, presumably by rather primitive means. I made my way to the amphitheater which was still in quite good condition carved right into the rockface itself. I was ready for lunch, and while the majority had chosen to sit in the roasting midday sun inside the amphitheater for theirs, I decided to wander around it to find a shady spot. I took the path to the left and chose a rocky perch that offered shade, back support and the occasional gecko peeking out from a rock. People kept on coming, searching for the way to the very top, only to be disappointed when they found it was a dead end – and me! (For those who are planning this trip – take the far path to the right of the theatre to get to the top – the left however offers an amazing lunch vista!)

I’d seen a picture of some sculptures that looked like sealions (actually 7th century lions), so  after my cashews and plums I headed down to explore the other side. This was much flatter with more open spaces and paved walkways to follow. I heard a whinning Aussie accent ask his wife “Whiieer are the lyyyons?” I saw his wife point to them about 50 meters away. He replied “Is it faaaaarrr?” Er, no. I had a great time taking all sorts of shots to turn into a kind of Any Warhol collection! I also found a hawk perusing its surroundings standing proudly on an ancient pillar. I cooled down before boarding by having a little paddle in the shallows of the make-shift harbour. I showed Nikos my photos as he hadn’t been off the boat yet. He laughed at all the lizard pictures “You want one as pet?!”

45 minutes later we arrived at the Mykonos pier – where 5 cruise ships were tendering in. Oh dear, this is gonna be BUSY! Stefanos, another crew member told me “Oh beautiful Sarah (!) just go straight, you find a nice quiet place”. Do you know how hard it is to “just go straight” in Greece?!?! I set off towards the town (called Mykonos Town), following the bay curving against the lapping ocean. But between the crowds and the almost-fluorescent white  winding narrow paths of the old town it was easy to lose any sense of direction. I ended up at the other end of the bay, walking up hill towards some beautiful old windmills perching above a dazzling view. 

After a while I wandered back in search of sustenance. I knew Mykonos would be expensive but €8 for chips?? No way! I deliberately walked away from the crowds and eventually stumbled across a tiny taverna near a museum and a public toilet! It was offering mezze and a cold beer for €6 – that’s more like it! The food and music from an old record player were wonderful, and I basked in the dappled sun whilst my beer supplied a lovely buzz. Hmmm. Bliss, until I realise I had no idea where I was or how far the ferry was! Oops! But all was well and I even had time to paddle in the cool sea before heading back on board. A brilliant day rounded off by Nikos asking me out for dinner! Not bad for a Thursday….