I am standing on a bronze-coloured sand dune surrounded by craggy, boulder-strewn mountains. The sun is just starting to peer above the peaks bathing the hills behind me in a warm, golden light. It is 6am in the Wadi Rum desert. A light breeze tousles my hair as I close my eyes and listen to the silence. And it is truly silent. And truly beautiful.

My trip started in Amman via a rather disappointing 5.5hr BA flight from LHR. Entry into the country is haphazard but simple enough, handing over your 40 Jordanian Dinar (JD for short, about £43 or $56) for your visa on arrival. Amman is a hectic, traffic-ridden city same as any other capitol. People are friendly and helpful and don’t want to bother you. You need to dress conservatively as it is a Muslim country, but other than the call to prayer and the beautiful mosques dotted around you wouldn’t necessarily notice it immediately. Jordanians have a wicked, teasing sense of humour and everyone seems to be drinking coffee and having the time of their lives! The Citadel is the centre point of downtown and looms above the main roads as well as the ampitheatre opposite where everyone hangs out. You can happily wander the winding backroads (prepare yourself for some hills and lots of steps!) and have a coffee or mint tea just about anywhere. And no visit is complete without sampling the best falafel in town at Hashems. But Amman is not where the real treasures lie….

A visit to Jerash is well worth while – yes we’ve all seen Roman ruins before but I have to say these are quite spectacular. Don’t miss singing a tune whilst standing on the ‘sweet spot’ in the amphitheatre and a walk along the cardio maxima. From Jerash head to the Dead Sea – 410m below sea level and presumable the saltiest place on Earth! Floating buoyantly (whilst being very careful not to get water in your eye) is a peculiar experience but one not to be missed. Cover yourself in the greenish mud and your skin will be eternally grateful (and soft).

Mount Nebo (where Moses saw the promised land) offers views of Jericho and Bethlehem and houses a church with ancient mosaic flooring inside. Unfortunately it was so windy – and I mean seriously windy – it was impossible to stay long or take any decent photos. Moving onto Madaba and the incredible Byzantine mosaic map in the Church of St George which has survived almost fully in tact is definitely worth a visit. From there its 2.5hrs to Petra.

I would advise a visit to Little Petra (Siq al-Barid) before you visit the real thing, but nothing prepares you for that first glimpse of the Treasury through the canyon. It is simply breath-taking, you can hardly believe you are standing there in front of this majestic 40m carving that you’ve only seen in pictures. Trust me, photos do not do this place justice! The rainbow striping of the sandstone is like nothing I’ve seen before. Purples and pinks, natural streaks and patterns, even the steps to the Monastery look carpeted. Petra is one of the most striking sights I have ever seen. 5 hours is just enough time to climb the 800 steps to the Monastery, walk around all the royal tombs and hike to the viewpoint above the Treasury, but you could easily spend longer. Get there as early as you can to beat the crowds but also get the best light. Trust me it’s worth it. There are other hikes you can do, but be wary of people (particularly men dressed as Jack Sparrow – yes it’s a thing) inviting you to take ‘short cuts’, and please don’t ride the animals unless you absolutely have to. We saw a dead donkey with it’s little baby standing beside her lost and lonely. The hiking was not that difficult and donkeys were absolutely not needed. Plus there is something amazing to see around every turn, and you’ll miss it if you’re clinging onto a hooved animal for dear life.

If that wasn’t enough reason put Jordan on your list then a night in the Wadi Rum will likely convince you. A jeep tour across the dunes swerving around craggy rocks to scale the famous arches (think The Martian) should help you work up an appetite for a traditional Bedouin meal. Cooked underground for hours and served with rice we were treated to delicious, tender meat and veg – it doesn’t get much more locally sourced than that! We sat around the bonfire drinking tea under a sky full of stars including a few shooting before heading to our cosy tents and warm blankets.

From there it is just an hour to Aqaba, the ‘resort’ of Jordan resting on the Red Sea. Aqaba is a tax-free special economic zone designed to encourage tourism – it even waives the visa fee! With hotter temperatures and excellent snorkelling Aqaba is a must-see. You can end the day with happy hour cocktails on the Hilton rooftop watching the sunset and smoking some shisha. I felt that perhaps the locals are not quite ready for tourism yet, although it looks like a resort it doesn’t feel like one. Which is a a good thing as you don’t visit Jordan just to drink and sunbathe. Despite this, Aqaba is a great end to a week-long adventure! I honestly cannot recommend Jordan enough!

Direct flights go to Amman and Aqaba daily. G Adventures offers 8 day tours starting and finishing in Amman. It felt safe for solo/female travellers although I did not use public transport on my trip. Driving would be a good way to sightsee and the roads are good. A meal costs £4-8 and accommodation is of a good standard.