I have travelled overland through much of Africa but had previously only visited Casablanca in Morocco. Marrakech had been a dream for a long time, and I highly recommend visiting in February for warm days and cool nights. I admit I cheated with a package deal for this 4-night trip, but it was an easy 20 minute taxi ride from Menara Airport to the walled city. There are also buses to Djemaa el Fna which is the huge central market. I warn you now – pee before you join the immigration queue – it is looooong!! There are also places to exchange your cash (Euros is best) as you exit immigration, and after that you can buy a Moroccan SIM card for your phone – and you WILL need Google Maps! (It pains me to say this as I love relying on my own mapping ability, but the souks are way bigger and more confusing than you can imagine, so buy a SIM card).

We arrived to the pink walls of the medina as night fell and a porter met us at the taxi drop off to escort us to our riad (hotel). The taxi driver had called them on the way which was a nice surprise (asking for directions maybe?!) and believe me even with Maps we wouldn’t have known where to go! I am not sure if this is typical of riads or not, but ours was split over 4 separate buildings meaning where we were sleeping was not where we checked in. But we were welcomed warmly by staff at the Angsana Collection and soon brought us a delicious dinner. One reason for staying there was that they catered to all our dietary requirements (which I had confirmed via email in advance) and it was delicious!

Day 1 – exploring the Medina

After a delicious breakfast of pancakes, fruit, jam and cake (all suitable for vegans) we set off to see the sights! The main street from our hotel Rue Riad Zitoun el Jdid lead more or less straight to the main square Djemaa el Fna so this seemed like a good choice to start with. Although not particularly narrow (in comparison to some of the tiny lanes) even this street felt cramped and crowded. With shops on both sides spilling their wares onto the pavement, various food carts, 2 lines of tourists snaking past each other, motorbikes, wagons and the odd donkey – the Medina can be a LOT. And honestly at times it was a little overstimulating. But if you lean into it and let it wash over you the chaos turns into a vibe!

Djemma el Fna is a whole other level! Even in the morning when the market stalls are barely set up there are still snake charmers (not ideal from the animal welfare perspective) food and flower sellers and some cafes that – if you sit on the top floor and pay top dollar for a coffee – provide fantastic views of the Atlas mountains! There are of course, a few people out to sting the tourists but with a firm ‘no thank you’ they soon lost interest. From the square you can take a stroll through the souks (this is where you need GPS!) or head to Koutoubia, a 12 century mosque worthy of a snap or 2. It was closed for works in Feb 2024 so I have no further information on this.

From there you can head down Avenue Hommane Al Fatouaki to Tinsmiths Square, a cute little area unfortunately situated in-between some of the busiest roads in the city! But the shops and restaurants offer a small oasis of calm and plenty of souvenirs! If you carry on through the square you will hit (almost literally) the peachy-coloured walls of Badi Palace. You can visit the 16th century building between 9 and 5 most days, but I highly recommend a walk around the perimeter where you will find huge stork nests high up on the walls and pillars! There were about 8 nesting pairs when we visited and they were all mating! Quite an unexpected sight!

There are 100s of places to eat, some offering rooftop views, most offering meat, veggie and some vegan options (the staples like pancakes, tagine and vegetable couscous are conveniently vegan) and many do sell alcohol. It appeared that there were certain areas that did not (the places near Tinsmiths Square) and a few in Djemma el Fna, but it seemed fine to ask and responses were an honest yes or no. It was not listed on all menus but again wait staff didn’t seem to be offended by asking, in fact in one restaurant I asked for the beer (listed as non-alcoholic) and the waiter asked if I wanted alcoholic instead. Another thing I found surprising was how subtle, almost bland the flavours of the local dishes were! I don’t know if this done for the tourists, or it is actually traditional cooking, but I certainly did not get a hint of the British take on ‘Moroccan-spiced’. Try the almonds, mint tea, the tiny pastries and the nut paste (not a town for nut allergies!)

Day 2 – A day trip!

There are a few day excursions you can do from Marrakesh, most will collect and drop-off within a few meters of your hotel. The main options are Essaouira beach, Ouzoud waterfall and Ouarzazate film studio. All involve a lot of driving (8-10 hours) so be prepared for that. The landscape was beautiful, with a backdrop of colourful mountains blending from red to yellow and green. The roads are actually very straight so fine for those with sensitive tummies! We chose the waterfall which included a little boat ride and guided hike. Despite the early month it was a hot day but the walk was easy enough, although probably not suitable for those with physical impairments or who depend on mobility aids. There are donkeys there for hire but I would implore you not to use them.

The hike is mostly downwards to the foot of the falls and includes a tea stop with a shop and a demonstration of local language and produce. Once you reach the bottom there are small rafts with what appear to be old chairs strapped to the top, and this is your ‘boat ride’ across the river. It is actually quite fun and you’ll feel some cool spray from the Jurassic Park scene that greets you (picture mossy cliffs and birds flying overhead).

From here its a few flight of steps to lunch, which is included and consisted of bread, tagine and fruit, and a front seat to take in the view. Once you’ve digested you have a few more flights up before another breathtaking view of the forest and a few macaques who will happily post for photos for a snack or a sip of water.

It is a long day but a lovely break from the city (though not from the tourists!) and outside of very hot weather would be manageable for most. Take snacks for the bus and plenty of water (if you have a filter bottle you can fill up at the photo stop – just ask).

We had dinner at Clock which provided veggie and vegan options at reasonable prices. We were treated to some excellent live music too!

Day 3

Today was another exploring day around the city and included highlights like Bahia Palace (go early if possible) the Photography museum (a nice glimpse into the history of Marrakech) and some nearby vegan tapas – get the whole menu for 2 people, delicious! The tannery is another option – you can smell it from the Photography Museum! We also visited the Secret Gardens which were lovely.

We tried to go to Jardin Marjorelle (the pictures look stunning) but sadly for us it opened for the season the day after we left! Oh well, next time…. We wandered through the souks again (I can’t tell you where, just follow the crowds!) and did some shopping and bartering. We found another rooftop bar for sunset with the help of a lovely local man, and then falafel and chips for dinner. After a couple of drinks we headed back to the main square to absorb the ambiance and chaos! And of course to buy a lamp!

And that’s it – we flew home after breakfast the following day. It was a great trip, especially good if you have meat/dairy dietary requirements, the people were friendly and kind and the weather was great! My advice would be to spend a little bit of time relaxing away from the hustle, just so it feels like a holiday. But you will love this place, so go on, what are you waiting for?!?